I’m starting to think the world’s upside down. The closer to the ocean I get, the steeper the hills. I’m now only 32km’s from the Atlantic (which I should reach tomorrow), but I’m still ascending.
While not as tough and steep as yesterday, it certainly hasn’t been a picnic today.
I left Vilaserío around 08:00 – really had a good night’s rest (don’t know about the others, as I know I snore terribly) – after the usual coffee and orange juice. I still can’t get myself to have breakfast early in the morning.
My first stop was just after Santa Mariña, where I again had coffee and orange juice, and also some Tarta de Santiago. This cake, for me, is a bit like tortilla de patatas – unbelievable if they get it right, terrible if they don’t. Unfortunately many establishments don’t bake it themselves anymore, but buy it in pre-baked – dry and terrible.
From Santa Mariña one starts a terrible climb, that ends at the top of some famous hill – they call it ‘Mount’ something, I can’t remember. While it’s an absolute bitch to walk up, I won’t go as far as calling it ‘mount’ anything! Let’s just call it a bitch of a hill!
Today was really cool – actually quite cold at times, with a very strong wind. Shortly after reaching the top of ‘Mount-Something-that’s-actually-just-a-bitch-of-a-hill’, it started raining. Walking under the trees (at the time) I didn’t really get wet, but it really looked as though a serious storm was approaching.
I stopped for lunch at Mallón. At first I only wanted a beer. Then I wanted another. Then an empanada (a kind of Spanish pie – I had the tuna). I only left after 3 beers, an empanada, and tarta de Finisterre (a chocolate version of tarta de Santiago).
I followed the way past Ponte Olveira and Olveiroa, before stopping at Logoso. It was around 14:20, and I contemplated continuing, but as the next decent stop was about 10km’s further, decided to call it a day. I may just be the only pilgrim staying over here tonight – suits me fine, though.
I had a couple of beers and an ice cream, a shower, and now I’m having a cold drink at a pub I was told was just down the road, but ended up being a km further.
I have about 32km’s to walk tomorrow, so I doubt I’ll be up late, but you never know. There’s always some gigantic German girl who wants to keep drinking beer, and I don’t argue with those. I swear, you’ve never seen anything like it – you really get big German birds (and I don’t mean overweight/fat – just really large).
Tomorrow I reach the ‘end of the world’, having been there frequently over the past months. I look forward to giving it the middle finger!
Today I really missed my boys and some good friends back home. It’s been a long journey.
Ps. Vaseline’s got no ‘best before date’, but when using it, it’s best to get it on before.