Day 3: Roncesvalles – Larrasoaña

It’s been a great but long day – 32km long to be exact. Though the guides recommend Zubiri as a stage stop after Roncesvalles, while stopping for lunch and a few beers in Zubiri, I decided to carry on to Larrasoaña (‘just’ 6km’s down the road).
It was a good decision – I’m tired, but feel strong. I simply had to break with the guides’ stages – I’ve been with the same people for three days, and it’s been enough.

I shared a bunk with Lindsay, a US Phd-student last night. She’s quite attractive and I (I had the top bunk) just prayed that snoring or any other bodily functions wouldn’t embarras me. She turned out to be a hectic snorer – I could hardly sleep.

I left Roncesvalles at 07:00 and stopped at a small café about 2.5km further for breakfast – a croissant with ham and cheese, a coffee, and a boiled egg for the road.
Lindsey showed up and said, ‘…seeing that you spent an evening on top of me, I suppose you won’t mind us sharing a breakfast table’. 
All the Americans I’ve met so far have a great sense of humour.
I asked her if she’s aware of the fact that she snores?
‘ I fart too, I’m human’, she replied.

The rest of the day I walked through the most beautiful scenery. Though the Pyrenees is behind me, there’s still the odd back-breaking hill – but at the top of each, there’s the most spectacular view to look back on.

I thought about my boys so much today. I really miss them. At some stage I realised that it’s okay to be proud of oneself. I am. Not just for doing the Camino – we should all learn to be proud of ourselves.

I’m staying at an albergue called Casa Elita. It’s run by a 70-something Spanish woman who takes shit from nobody. The only two English words she knows is ‘fuck off’, but, to compensate for her limited English vocabulary, she uses these two words as often as possible (even when not necessary or sensical at all).
She’s taken a liking in me though – old women always do – so I scored a private room.

I arrived in Larrasoaña at 16:30, had a beer, a shower and then did my washing (by hand). It dawned on me that, once wet, I cannot really see if the clothes are clean?

Anyway, today’s lesson: bananas, water and Vaseline are your true friends.


I’m getting there – though I’m still not sure where ‘there’ may be.


Buen Camino!

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